Browns

The Famished Foodie digs in to an early morning meal at this sweet spot celebrating 45 years.

I DON’T really need an excuse to go to Browns Restaurant at St. Charles and the Boardwalk. But when I heard they were celebrating 45 years in business, well, now I had the perfect excuse – not that I needed one – to take the whole crew for a delicious breakfast and a couple dozen of their iconic donuts.

My crew, including Ultraman, Godzilla, King Kong and Mothra (they’re only enemies in the movies) woke up to a rainy Saturday in April but were brightened by the prospect of Browns still-hot “almost famous” donuts. It’s not easy getting those guys outta bed, so thanks to Browns donuts for providing motivation.

We could smell the yumminess before we even climbed the steps to the Boards. We all popped through the front door, were greeted warmly and within a few moments had a seat near the window and menus in our hands.

Our server Paige – one of the third generation of Browns still keeping the place running – greeted us promptly and we soon had hot coffee and a plate full of Browns donuts in front of us. That’s right, life is short, so we eat our donuts before breakfast and bam! There they were all dope-dripping with deliciousness. And I love that Browns refers to them as “almost famous.” There are six different varieties; cinnamon sugar, honey glaze, chocolate or vanilla glaze, powdered sugar or plain, and they hit your hands still hot and totally delicious. So go for the donuts but, stay for the breakfast.

“This breakfast is exquisite,” said Ultraman, who ordered the “super combo” of eggs, bacon, and pancakes and who barely looked up while devouring his meal, even after several donuts.

“These eggs are so fluffy,” added Mothra, who went with an asparagus and feta cheese omelet. “And they’re really well-seasoned. They don’t need anything.”

Godzilla ordered the “animal pancake” which arrived in the shape of a famous mouse. “It tastes good, it’s Mickey and I like it,” said the lizard beast.

Browns really does the details well. Breakfast always arrives hot. The bacon is crispy, the toast is just right, and the eggs are fluffy and delicious. I understand why so many people return year after year to this OC favorite.

“Forty-five years ago Harmon and Marjorie were teachers in Pennsylvania, and they came down here and they wanted something to do in the summer with their five children,” said Missy Brown, who along with husband Jim are the second generation of Browns cooking up the goodness. “So they rode up and down the Boardwalk checking out the businesses. Mom woke up in the middle of the night and said ‘hey we can do this better. Let’s open a restaurant. We have five kids, let’s do this.’ And dad was like… ‘ok.’ He’d tell you she was the inspiration, and he was the perspiration.”

That story is one of the reasons I love Ocean City. Family businesses doing things right and serving generations of other families. And the food is pure Ocean City; simple and clean ingredients that are well-prepared. With bombdiggity donuts.

“That was 1976. It was just a small place then. My husband and his brother ran North End Grill and mom and dad had Browns. In 1994 they knocked it down and made it bigger. They worked here every summer with all the kids. Now the third generation has come in and it’s just a lot of fun.”

King Kong went with a breakfast sandwich. “Great sandwich,” said the Eighth Wonder of the World.

As for myself, King Koopa, I had my standard breakfast of eggs, bacon, home fries, and toast. The eggs have a nice light texture, the bacon is how I make it, and the toast is just right. Sprinkle some Tabasco sauce and bam.

We sat at a corner table and had a great view of the boards and the beach. We watched people walk up the steps empty-handed and down the steps with a box of Browns donuts in their hands. We made the monsters put down their phones and we had a nice, delicious family breakfast at a really friendly restaurant. Which is, I guess, the whole point.